The Mughal dynasty ruled over India five centuries ago. From the construction of beautiful architectural marvels to the arts, clothing, jewelry, and food, the Mughals dominated their realm with innovation and prosperity. One of the major creations for which they were known for globally was gemstone jewelry. The art of Mughal jewelry-making was appreciated and accepted worldwide because it was fashionable, loaded with big chunks of precious natural gems, and embroidered with unique emblems. They even incorporated gems into their monuments, like the Taj Mahal. The size of the gemstones carved in the crowns and other pieces of jewelry depicted the ranks of authority. The members of the Royal family boasted natural gemstone jewelry in the form of crowns, rings, toe rings, bracelets, and many other items. The goldsmiths were instructed to create special designs of jewelry with heavy stones and beads specific to the royalty. Various Rajasthani jewelers were particularly well-known for being hired to create antique jewelry with intricate motif designs. Therefore, Mughal jewelry evolved as a combination of the craftsmanship of Rajputs and the unique artistry of the Mughals.
Popular Mughal Reign Gemstones
- Ruby
- Diamond
- Pearl
- Topaz
- Sapphire
- Nephrite/ Jade
- Tourmalines
- Emerald
- Turquoise
- Spinel
- Chrysolite
Anatomy of Royal Jewels
The royals of the Mughal era always had a keen interest in fashion and food. Mughal jewelry was crafted with the utmost brilliance, creativity, and expertise in keeping with their love for glory. They were lovers of natural gemstones, which was reflected in their attire. Mughal jewelry was made out of gold. The base was always either gold or silver or any other precious metal that was incorporated with precious gemstones.
Some of the favorite styles of jewelry that were adorned were the Kundan and Polki styles. The difference between the two is that Polki stones are usually raw diamonds and are given a matte finish. On the other hand, Kundan is a special form of making jewelry by integrating gemstones in a specialized way.
The enameling technique was also used to form intricate floral patterns at the edges of the jewelry piece. In addition to flowers, birds, and paisley, were some very common and popular patterns crafted in Mughal jewels.
Gemstone Ornaments
Silk Turbans
The Mughal emperors were symbolized by many things, and one of them was turbans. Emperors of the realm and courtiers wore silk turbans embellished with gold, pearls, and natural gemstones like rubies and emeralds. The queens also wore head jewelry assimilated with gold and stunning precious stones.
Ear Ornaments
The most loved jewelry pieces by emperors and empresses were ear studs and earrings. The beautiful designs made with gold and silver used to be heavily decorated with gemstones like diamonds, rubies, sapphires, etc.
Nose Rings
This piece of jewelry was made out of pure gold and laden with diamonds and rubies to form a stunning ornament. Sometimes nose rings are only worn as a single piece and also with large hoops and pearl beads fastened to the ear.
Neck Ornaments
The eye-catching ornament collection of the Mughal dynasty was well-known for its illustrious necklaces and heavy chains. The neck jewels are still praised for their beautiful antique designs, patterns, and incredible gemstones and are preserved in the historical reserves of India.
Wrist Jewelry
The bracelets worn by Mughals were bejeweled with unique styles and patterns that made them a trendy piece of jewelry to look up to till date.
Rings
The rich jewelry collection of the Mughal era is incomplete without mentioning huge rings made out of pure gold. The rings were designed to fit two to three fingers and were adorned with gigantic precious stones. The headpieces on the rings were either circular or square. In addition to hand rings, empresses wore toe rings embellished with tiny cut pieces of natural gems.
After the decline of the Mughal era, most of the jewels were either confiscated, sold, or lost. However, the pieces of ornaments preserved or recovered display the grandeur of craftsmanship and artistry that the Mughals adorned. The jewelry style is still very popular among women for its rich designs and heaviness. They are a great way of incorporating your favorite gemstones into your favorite ornaments. New designs and trends by natural gemstone shops in Dubai also take inspiration from Mughal era designs and form delicate, extravagant jewelry with beautiful, rare, and costly stones.
